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當前位置:首頁 > 民族風情 > 云南各地彝族服飾

云南各地彝族服飾

作者:不詳來源:網絡2019-06-17 08:01:26
云南各地彝族服飾

云南因為各地的地域差異,少數民族分布地區不同,尤為彝族較為突出,彝族服飾也各有不同。

海菜腔的故鄉——紅河哈尼族彝族自治州

紅河哈尼族彝族自治州位于云南省東南部,轄3市10縣(蒙自市、個舊市、開遠市、建水縣、石屏縣、彌勒縣、瀘西縣、元陽縣、紅河縣、綠春縣、金平苗族瑤族傣族自治縣、屏邊苗族自治縣、河口瑤族自治縣),總人口450.1萬人,州府設在蒙自市。紅河州少數民族眾多,境內有哈尼族、彝族、漢族、苗族、傣族、壯族、瑤族、回族等民族,少數民族人口占56%。他們的宗教信仰、民族建筑、服裝服飾、音樂舞蹈各有特色。

紅河彝族服飾主要流行于滇南紅河地區,以建水、石屏、元陽等縣最為典型。彝族服飾可區別的有近百種。

紅河彝族姑娘愛戴雞冠帽,帽上的大小銀泡,表示星星和月亮,象征光明和幸福。婦女服飾多彩多姿,既有大襟右衽長衫,也有中長衣和短裝,普遍著長褲,衣罩外套坎肩,系圍裙;頭飾琳瑯滿目,多以銀泡或絨線作裝飾;服飾色調極濃,并貫用配套的對比色,鮮艷奪目,裝飾性很強;圖案以自然紋形為多幾何紋次之。男子服飾與其他地方相差不大。

阿詩瑪的故鄉——昆明市石林彝族自治縣

石林彝族自治縣隸屬云南省昆明市。總面積1725平方公里,總人口241625人。在石林縣境內的彝族有撒尼、黑彝、彝親、阿細、阿彝子等支系。石林旅游資源獨特,有被譽為 “天下第一奇觀”的石林風景區。石林人文資源豐富,是中國阿詩瑪的故鄉。以“一詩”敘事長詩《阿詩瑪》,“一影”中國第一部彩色音樂電影《阿詩瑪》,“一歌”《遠方的客人請您留下來》,“一舞”彝族撒尼大三弦舞 ,“一節”一年一度的彝族火把節,“一繡”阿詩瑪刺繡品為代表的彝族文化內涵豐富,影響深遠,最有影響。

石林撒尼婦女服飾色彩鮮艷,美觀大方,工藝精巧,一件服飾可謂一件精美藝術品。

撒尼婦女頭戴彩虹包頭,因頭戴包頭而不注重發形的打扮,在家中老人去世,做孝女時才取下包頭,將頭發梳于腦后,遍扎獨辮,以示做孝。撒尼婦女頭飾彝語叫“喔姐”呈半圓形,似天上彩虹。但居住在石林北部地區的撒尼包頭穿戴時稍“歪”,俗稱“歪包頭”。包頭上的色彩和飾物隨年齡,婚否有明顯的區別。老年人和已婚婦女多用紅、黑兩色布做包頭,頭頂上只有一只平放的三角形飾物,表示已婚。未婚姑娘的包頭十分艷麗,做工別致,用紅、黑、黃、綠等五彩絲綢做包頭,包頭邊沿釘潔白的銀泡,包頭兩端繡精美的花草圖案,包頭的雙耳部各插一只刺繡精細的“彩蝶”,表示未婚。包頭右端綴一串玻璃珠或一綹烏亮的黑發,彝語稱“搶喔”。搶喔過右肩垂露至前胸,走動時會發出清脆悅耳的響聲。

身穿斜襟長衣,長略過膝,雙腿兩側開衩至腰。長衣的領口、袖口用花邊鑲嵌。袖子用花邊和五彩布疊鑲成各種紋飾。長衣的邊角用絲線滾鑲。長衣的右前胸鑲世代相傳的白云圖案。肩斜披披風,兩條披風帶分別過右肩左腋下,交搭于前胸,帶端自然下垂及膝。寒則肩披綿羊皮披風。腰系長方形圍腰,圍腰帶打結于后,自然下垂成尾飾。圍腰系好后,對角拉成三角形別在腰際,起到裝飾和衣兜的作用。

世界黑冠長臂猿之鄉——普洱市景東彝族自治縣

景東彝族自治縣位于云南省西南部,是普洱市的北大門。全縣轄4鎮9鄉,全縣總人口35.95萬人,國家一類重點保護動物黑冠長臂猿和一類重點保護植物云南紅豆杉是“兩山”自然保護區的王牌,被中國野生動物保護協會評為“中國黑冠長臂猿之鄉”。

景東歷史悠久,民風濃郁,積淀著深厚的民族民間文化底蘊。境內至今流傳著火把節、跳歌、跳菜、耍龍、耍獅、花燈、煞戲、洞經等豐富多彩的民族民間文化活動。景東鏡內的彝族分咪利、倮倮、蒙化、香檀四個支系。因居住區域和生存環境的不同,各彝族支系的服飾區別很大。就是在同一支系中,他們的服飾也會隨生活習俗和著裝人的身份、愛好、年齡不同而有差異。雙耳佩金、銀、珊瑚、玉、貝等耳飾。并用銀器裝飾服裝,且點綴的每個飾物和圖案都有它特殊的含意、象征和忌諱,反映著自己民族的傳統特點,形成獨具特色的審美觀,在中國及世界民族服飾百花園中顯示著自己永恒的靚麗。

景東彝族服飾主要有勞作服、娛樂服、休閑服、節日盛裝等。景東的彝族服飾,雖有眾多的款式和特征,但仍有許多共同之處。如所有的彝族女服均由頭飾、上衣、飄帶、褲子、圍腰、繡花布鞋組成。男性服飾基本相同,都由包頭、上衣、馬褂、大襠褲、尖嘴布鞋或“毛邊底”組成。色彩也多以藍、黑為主。

云南省的第一個民族區域自治縣——峨山

云南省峨山彝族自治縣成立于1951年5月12日,是新中國誕生后的第一個彝族自治縣,也是云南省的第一個民族區域自治縣。峨山彝族有聶蘇、納蘇、山蘇等10多個支系。彝族服飾的花飾圖案是彝族婦女服飾中最重要的組成部分,圖案裝飾感較強,色彩搭配協調統一而又富于變化,給人以強烈的視覺沖擊力。

花腰彝婦女的頭飾頗具特色,由三塊黑色、淺紅和綠色布料拼成長方形的平塊主體,帽子兩邊配有兩條帶子,頂端有花飾圖案,主體圖案為鐵梨花,帽子背面圖案為馬櫻花,帶子兩端系上纓須下垂耳旁,耳綴大環。彝族花腰婦女服飾在不同的年齡和結婚、喪葬中有不同的區別和特殊點。彝族花腰姑娘到結婚時,所穿的服飾是花腰婦女服飾中最具特色的服飾,幾乎所有的花飾圖案、花邊紋樣布滿全身,其色彩更鮮艷,制作工藝更精致,裝飾的飾物更多。

云藥之鄉——玉溪市新平彝族傣族自治縣

新平彝族傣族自治縣屬玉溪市。全縣總面積4223平方公里,總人口28.5萬人。新平縣境內有彝族、傣族、哈尼族、拉祜族、回族、白族、苗族、漢族等17種民族,其民族風俗獨異新平彝族的服飾以黑為基調,繡花裝飾。新平彝族婦女服飾豐富多彩,不同的地域有不同的特色,分魯奎山型、磨盤山型、新化型、老廠型和哀牢山型。

最有特色的是建興鄉臘魯支系,臘魯婦女大多系著漂亮的圍腰去趕街做客,走親串戚。臘魯女子從七八歲就開始系圍腰,它用幾種色彩鮮艷的布片拼制而成,上面鑲銀泡,每塊圍腰至少要200顆銀泡才能鑲成,多的可達684顆。每當吉日節慶,婦女們都要系上光彩奪目的銀泡圍腰跳舞賽歌,銀泡圍腰給節日的歡樂增添了獨特的魅力和情趣。

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